First let me say that I'm NOT going to tell you where the best places are to canoe camp on Isle Royale. Read on, however, for some useful info:
Why I like canoe camping on Isle Royale
Unlike canoe camping in Boundary Waters or the
Canadian north woods, Isle Royale has no long rivers to run, and no trips
of a hundred miles or more that are possible. What Isle Royale offers,
though, is mostly uncrowded canoeing, a wide variety of scenery, from inland
lakes to sheltered Lake Superior bays, to some exposed Lake Superior shoreline,
and the opportunity to combine canoe camping with day hikes and short backpack
loops. Because the canoe country of Isle Royale is fairly small,
it's a great place to make travel from campsite to campsite a small fraction
of your agenda; go for quality rather than quantity, and spend more time
exploring the trails, fishing, playing naturalist, and generally taking
it easy.
Canoe camping opportunities
The most common canoe camping trips people take
on Isle Royale are
1. Rock Harbor to Lake Richie
to McCargoe Cove to Belle Isle to Duncan Bay to Rock Harbor loop (in either
direction)
2. Rock Harbor to Lake Richie
to Siskiwit Lake to Chippewa Harbor to Lake Richie to Rock Harbor loop
(in either direction)
3. Chippewa Harbor to Lake
Richie to Siskiwit Lake to Chippewa Harbor loop (in either direction -
involves transportation to Chippewa Harbor via the Voyageur)
4. McCargoe Cove to Belle Isle
to Rock Harbor (or reverse, but best to start at McCargoe Cove).
This trip utilizes the National Park Concessions' MV Sandy Tour
Boat (which will take canoes on its run to McCargoe Cove for the Minong
Mine Interpretive Tour), or the Voyageur (which will stop at McCargoe
Cove on its clockwise trip around the Island from Windigo to Rock Harbor).
5. Siskiwit Lake/Lake Richie/Chippewa
Harbor/Wood Lake/Siskiwit Lake loop, accessed at Malone Bay. Requires
transportation to Malone Bay, usually by the Voyageur.
Other options include:
1. Windigo to Beaver Island,
Grace Island, or some shoreline areas north or south of the west end of
Washington Harbor. However, note that rough seas can be frequent
outside the shelter of Washington Harbor, and that no camping is allowed
on offshore islands except at designated campgrounds.
2. Rock Harbor (the long harbor,
not Snug Harbor, where the lodge and Rock Harbor Campground are located).
This is a nice option for those who desire zero portages.
However, you won't do much wilderness canoeing, and you may have trouble
getting into campgrounds such as Merritt Lane, Tookers Island, and Caribou
Island, which are frequented by powerboaters. Rock Harbor is also
subject to high winds and waves, especially if the wind blows straight
down the harbor in either direction.
3. Tonkin and Conglomerate Bays (accessed by Middle
Islands Passage from Rock Harbor). These are sheltered bays where
camping is permitted, and the distance from the sheltered waters of Rock
Harbor is relatively short. The Park Service once had a campground
on Conglomerate Bay. However, beware that one can be stranded in
those bays by high winds and waves for a day or more if high winds from
the ENE to east to south come up while you're there.
Blake Point
Many canoeists making a trip around the northeast end of the Island
consider paddling around Blake Point to avoid the Tobin Harbor to Duncan
Bay portage (and potentially also the trivial Duncan Bay to Five Finger
Bay portage). There are two reasons to consider NOT
paddling around Blake Point. First, the difficulty of the Tobin/Duncan
portage is overrated. While it has very steep spots, it's short enough
that with a couple of rests, almost anyone should make the portage without
difficulty. Besides, why not take a break at the Greenstone
Ridge Trail at the high point of the portage, make the easy hike to the
spectacular view at Lookout Louise and back, and then continue on with
your canoe? Second, winds and waves on the northwest and southeast
sides of Blake Point are almost always different, and you may not know
how bad it is on the opposite side of the point until you get there.
While the southeast side provides some protection in Merritt Lane, the
northwest side offers no safe harbor for more than a mile west from
the point.
Rock Harbor to Chippewa Harbor (and beyond)
If winds and waves are predictable and will be minimal, the trip from
Middle Islands Passage to Chippewa Harbor (or vice versa) can be easy,
and for much of the way there are places to land. The trip takes
less than 3 hours in good conditions. However, wind and wave conditions
can change conditions can change very quickly on Lake Superior, so
the trip should only be attempted under ideal conditions (such as when
a high pressure area is cresting over the area and no thunderstorms are
predicted). Travelling west from Chippewa Harbor to Malone Bay and
beyond involves the same risks, only moreso.
McCargoe Cove to Pickerel Cove
This often-canoed stretch can easily have waves 2 feet or higher, because
it is totally exposed to a north or west wind. Wind and wave conditions
are often not obvious at McCargoe Cove Campground, so I expect many a canoeist
has set out from McCargoe Cove bound for Pickerel Cove or beyond, only
to encounter high winds and waves at the north end of McCargoe Cove.
Then the decision must be made to wait it out (which could take hours or
even a couple days), try to get a site at Birch Island (which may be full),
or return to McCargoe Cove and try again on another day. To minimize
the risk of having to go back and forth in McCargoe Cove, checking out
wind and wave conditions in the Big Lake, I recommend getting a backcountry
permit to camp on the northwest side of McCargoe Cove close to the mouth
of the cove. You may not want or need to use the permit (getting
a backcountry camping permit doesn't mean you can't stay in designated
campgrounds), but if the scenario described above exists when you reach
the north end of the cove, at least you have another option.
Lake Superior is almost always cold!
Even though you've probably been told this before, it can't hurt to
emphasize that Lake Superior seldom gets warm. Mid-summer temperatures
just a short distance off shore are usually in the 40's and can be in the
30's if strong winds have brought cold deeper waters to the surface.
Always be aware of this, and consider that the chances of surviving a one
mile (or even half mile) swim in such waters, even with a life jacket,
could be very low. Best bet is to stay as close to shore as possible,
but far enough out to avoid submerged rocks.
Weather radios and MAFOR
MAFOR weather forecasts are available at such places as Rock Harbor
and Windigo Ranger Stations, but I always carry a weather radio when canoeing
at Isle Royale. Forecasts available on weather radios are more detailed,
are always available and are constantly updated in changing conditions.
On the south shore of the Island, the station at Houghton, Michigan can
be received, while on the north shore, the Thunder Bay, Ontario station
can be heard. There are places in the inland lakes where it is difficult
to get either station, but with the exception of Siskiwit Lake (which can
develop very large waves), one can't get too far from shore on those lakes,
and they tend to be warm in summer. Except on ridgetops and at the
extreme ends of the Island, you will be unlikely to receive both the Houghton
and Thunder Bay stations.
Circling Isle Royale by canoe - very dangerous and not recommended!!!
Kayakers sometimes circle the Island, but I would NOT
recommend it in a canoe, even perhaps in a covered canoe. Under ideal
conditions,
the south shore could be done, but from McGinty Cove to Little Todd Harbor
on the north shore there are essentially no harbors, and the shore
is steep and rocky. Even kayakers will only run this stretch in ideal
conditions. Almost no canoeists even attempt the shoreline from Little
Todd Harbor to McCargoe Cove, due to its exposure to strong west and north
winds and a shortage of landing spots in places.
The open waters of Lake Superior, except for short stretches like from McCargoe Cove to Pickerel Cove and then only in ideal conditions, are for experienced canoeists only.
Getting off and on the Ranger at Mott Island
While most park visitors using the Park Service's Ranger III
to access the Island will get on and off at Rock Harbor (Snug Harbor),
canoeists and kayakers may also get off and on at Mott Island, where the
park headquarters are located. For those heading west to Moskey Basin
and points west, this saves a couple hours of padding, plus you get an
earlier start (by an hour or so) than you would if getting off at Rock
Harbor Lodge.
A few cautions, though:
1. Make sure you and your gear (including your boat)
are tagged for Mott Island ("Mott") before you leave Houghton; you
won't haved the option of changing your mind once the Ranger III
is underway.
2. There is no place to camp on Mott Island.
So, if you get to Mott and Rock Harbor has 3 to 4 foot waves, you might
want to reconsider getting off there. You'd need to talk to a Park
Service employee on the boat before arriving at Mott.
3. If you plan to get on the Ranger III on
its way back to Houghton, consider the possibility that rough seas can
make it difficult to reach Mott Island at times. Sudden storms or
unexpected high waves may make it difficult to make the boat on time if
you don't allow lots of extra time to get to Mott. If you don't make
the boat, they won't wait for you, and you'll be forced to paddle on to
Rock Harbor and get the next boat back that has space for you and your
boat(s).
Canoe Campsites
See my backpacking
page for info on canoe access campsites.
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Last update: January 20, 2001